Gary May - A week in Provence

A week in Provence: Seven things to do in seven days in the region made famous by Peter Mayle
By Gary May

Provence caresses the senses. The landscape is a feast for the eyes, changing dramatically as you come off the plains of central France into the dramatic crags; the scent of the ubiquitous lavender is tranquilizing; the taste of the Mediterranean-influenced food, the sound of people engaged in commerce in the market towns and the feel of rough-quarried stone as you brush past ancient buildings in the hilltop towns all announce your arrival.
Author Peter Mayle wrote lovingly of his year in Provence. But for those of us who cannot spend that much time ingesting the culture and beauty of this magnificent place, here is a travellers' guide: Seven things to do in seven days in Provence.

1. A taste of history: The town of Orange
Forget Napoleon's arch, Orange is home to the real Arc de Triomphe, built 2,000 years ago by the Romans. The arc is one of the town's two UNESCO World Heritage sites, the other being the Roman theatre that boasts the only theatre wall from the Roman era left standing in Europe.
The arc sits on a main downtown street and was built to celebrate Julius Caesar's conquest over the Gauls and victory over the Greek fleet. It is adorned with carvings of the defeated Gauls being led off in chains. Anchors and ropes attest to the maritime theme.
Nearby Orange's magnificent market square sits the Theatre Antique. The outdoors theatre is still used for concerts and dramatic presentations. The theatre was built at the outset of the Christian era when, in its original state, it could hold more than 9,000 spectators. The theatre wall was built to amplify sound. The wall features mosaics and a copy of a statue of Emperor Augustus and stands as testament to the Romans' engineering genius. An excellent self-guided tour is available through a tape player you can rent.

2. Degustation in wine country: Chateauneuf-du-Pape
About 10 kilometres south of Orange is the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, centre of one of France's most celebrated wine regions. A drive through the meticulously maintained vineyards reveals views of the magnificent mountains, standing sharp against an azure blue sky.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the best known of the Cotes-du-Rhone wine labels and takes its name from the charming little yellow-stone village that sits among the clay field vineyards. It is said that Pope John XXII of Avignon planted the first vineyards in the 14th century.
Of course you'll want to stop at one of the many wineries for a taste. My experience is one of how NOT to go wine-tasting in France. My advice: don't expect a Niagara-style taste test for a set price and don't just stop at the first winery you see. Some hosts are helpful; others are not. Despite our babes-in-the-wood approach to wine tasting, my wife and I stumbled onto a fabulous Domaine Grand Veneur, 2004, by Alain Jaume et Fils, took it back to our chateau and thoroughly enjoyed sipping it while lounging by the pool.

3. Visit a typical Mediterranean hilltop town: Gordes and the nearby Abbaye de Senanque.
Ah, the lavender. Seas of sharp mauve and purple hues greet you at every curve in the road. The aroma soon becomes familiar to the visitor to Provence and beckons him onward. Arriving from the south, there is a spectacular view of Gourdes, situated on a hill. It is known as one of the most beautiful towns in France. Its lovely white stone buildings line the calades or narrow cobblestone streets. Off the central market area are fascinating shops that sell produce and artwork.

It is a place where artists live, labour and sell their works. The pretty Saint-Firmin Church is of Romanesque origin and was rebuilt in the 18th century; little seems changed since. Frescos are chipped and fading and it is in disrepair, yet it retains a quiet dignity. Its stone walls keep at bay the rising summer heat. We buy fruit in the market and stop near an ampitheatre, in a refuge built into the rock, to enjoy lunch. Afterwards, we continue up the road and encounter one of the scenes that most defines Provence, the Abbaye de Senanque and the fields of lavender that seem to envelop it. You might encounter the Cistercian monks working in the fields: they harvest the lavender and make products for sale in the on-site store. The building's simple beauty beckons the traveller to stop and enjoy this magnificent site.
	Photo by Gary May The Mediterranean town of Cassis is known as the poor man's St-Tropez. No one seems to mind if you just want to sit at a harbour-side cafe and watch the world go by.

4. In the footsteps of Cezanne: Explore Aix-en-Provence
Peter Mayle says Aix boasts the most beautiful main street in France, the Cours Mirabeau. A stroll along the boulevard, shaded by towering sycamores, takes you past the sorts of cafes you sought, but never really found, in Paris. The street is bustling, yet not dirty and crowded as you are more likely to find in the capital. Its 17th- and 18th-century mansions, town hall, old archbishop's palace and cathedral are breathtaking. Its fountains and squares entice you to stop and relax.
Take the Paul Cezanne walk, a self-guided tour of the old city along five paths that highlight favourite haunts of the impressionist painter. Brass plaques in the ground help you stay on track and take you to buildings that played a part in his life. You can also visit his studio and garden. There is a similar tour for writer Emile Zola who grew up in Aix.
Don't miss the Hotel de Chateaurenard, built in 1654, which features a superb staircase painted in trompe-l'oeil a mural that creates a three-dimensional illusion. And don't forget to stop in one of the many squares to sit a while and enjoy a glass of wine or a beer and take in the architecture and street life.

5. The artists countryside: Montagne Sainte Victoire
You might want to avoid the most scorching summer days, but if the temperature is right, take time to hike to a spot outside Aix from which you can enjoy a view of Montagne Sainte Victoire, one of the Provencal impressionists' favourite subjects. Great grey rock outcroppings, glorious sun, Meditereranean trees and shrubs and a profusion of wildflowers make it easy to understand what attracted them.
We drive to the Barre de Bimont, park and walk over to take in a panoramic view of an aqua blue upper lake, the forests and Sainte Victoire creating an enticing backdrop. Despite the heat, we follow a trail through the woods, scrambling up and down rocky inclines. After 45 minutes, we find ourselves atop a flat, open spot and are rewarded with a breathtaking view of Sainte Victoire and de la Croix. It is a wonderful spot to stop and enjoy some cheese and fruit and quench your thirst.
On the way home, we stop at the picturesque village of Vauvenargues and find a cafe from which we enjoy the view: unending forests, hang-gliders silhouetted against the mountain and, in the valley, a private chateau.

6. Seaside Provence: Cassis
It's called the poor man's St-Tropez, this seaside resort south of Marseilles. Built around a busy harbour, the town bustles with cafe life. Lunch is inexpensive and delicious, the service is unhurried and no one seems to mind if you just sit and watch for an hour or two.

Sunbathers enjoy the pebbly main beach. There are boat tours that take you along the coastline where there are more secluded beaches and where yachts pull in for the day. A trip on the Pettit-Train, a tram, takes you to a point where you can best observe Europe's tallest cliffs. Below are the town, the harbour and the endless blue tones of the sea into which teenaged dare-devils plunge from jagged rocks.

7. Enjoy a luxury chateau: Moulin de Vernegues There are any number of chateaus from which to choose. We picked one outside Mallemort surrounded by acres of forest and gardens and home to a famed golf course. Moulin is a stylish, laid-back luxury resort amidst the Luberon Mountains. It was a perfect location from which we could take daily drives to take in the region's charms. A dip in the pool always refreshed at the end of a dusty day of touring.

The Moulin is a glorious old 17th-century manorhouse of stone with grey shutters. Its grand entrance hall opens onto dining rooms, a bar and lounge. From one of the dining rooms you can step onto the terrace from which you can view the yard and pool.	Photo by Gary May The pool at the luxury chateau hotel, Moulin de Vernegues. The Mallemort-area resort is surrounded by acres of forest and gardens and is home to a famed golf course.

There are 38 rooms, brightly furnished in antiques, with private bath. Room prices range from 150 euros to 225 euros per day, tax included. Continental breakfast is 10 euros. Dinner in the elegant dining rooms ranges from 21 to 39 euros.

Published April 29, 2006, The Ottawa Citizen Travel